Schwabing–Bohemian Bavaria

June 18, 2008

Admit it, there was a time in your life when you considered dropping out of school or quitting your job and moving to Greenwich Village, taking your painting or guitar playing more seriously and living la vie boheme. Don’t deny it, there’s an artist’s heart beating somewhere deep in your chest. There’s a free spirit longing to escape your office. Send it to Schwabing.

Schwabing used to be Munich’s bohemian quarter. It did not escape the gentrification common to such periodically hip areas, but thanks to the proximity of Ludwigs-Maximilians-Universität and the Technical University of Munich, student activity and the rebellious, free spirit of youth has not fled.

Nowadays, Schwabing is the place to dine in Munich if you’re looking for either a classic beer and pretzels Bavarian pub or the cool, new and soon-to-be famous avant-cuisine of the month. Once you pass under the Siegestor you’ll know you’re in a unique neighborhood. As a bonus, if you’re not up for finding yourself you can always get lost in one of the largest public parks in the world. Now that’s wild.

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Peacock Island

June 17, 2008

Every country, even most regions, have their quirky attractions that just don’t seem to fit in with the local atmosphere. America may be the king of the out-of-place. Every midwestern county with two acres of unoccupied interstate-side land seems to host the worlds tallest this or biggest that. What the world’s biggest twine ball is doing in Darwin, Minnesota is beyond me, but what Peacock Island is doing in the Havel River is no mystery.

Peacock Island is pretty much what it sounds like, an island with peacocks. Most people don’t imagine frivolous beauty when they think of Germany. The country has a reputation for austere design and imposing architecture dominated by even more imposing personalities. It may be for just those reasons that King Wilhelm Friedrich II designed a purpose built work-of-art landscape project so ambitious his successor had to help him complete it.

Everything about Peacock Island was planned with typical German precision and attention to detail, but extraordinary aesthetic ingenuity. The paths were planned with line of sight in mind and each turn presents an architectural treat or stunning panorama. The island is a work of art in flora and fauna, and each structure is similarly special. From the artificial gothic ruin, the diary, to the palace which was designed as a ruined Roman country mansion, every inch of Peacock Island begs exploration.

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Rome — A Nice, Long Walk

June 15, 2008

More and more tourists and vacationers going to Italy are rightfully turning in their bus passes for comfortable shoes. There are walking tours in Rome, both guided and self-guided between various European cities and attractions, but if you’re looking to spend a day–or a few days–exploring Italy and don’t want to shell out extra cash for the privilege of stretching your legs, I humbly recommend Rome as your one stop stroll shop.

Rome just lends itself to walking. Even if it weren’t the case that many of the more interesting ancient roads are too thin to admit any vehicle more robust than a Vespa scooter, there would still be something to stop and see around every corner, and scores of people to interact with along each path.

One good walk can begin at the Colosseum. Easily Rome’s most recognizable landmark, and one of the most well known attractions in the world, the Colosseum is situated right in the midst of a huge concentration of top 10 sights. Take a walk northwest along the Via Dei Fori Imperiali and your day can easily fly by before you’ve exhausted the museums and churches.

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Family Activity in Wales That’ll Leave the Kids Screaming for Joy

June 11, 2008

The problem with family activities is that they seldom satisfy anyone. In the interest of compromising between the parents’ desire for safety and wholesome values and the kids’ yearning for adventure everyone is left with a bland, unexciting experience. This isn’t always the case, after all, but how many times can you swing on a tire from the backyard tree or watch giant foam-rubber mascots dance before you want to run screaming to the next stop on your itinerary? For me, once. I am pleased to announce that I’ve discovered where I’ll be spending at least one weekend on my next trip to the UK.

Clyne Farm in Wales boasts the world’s muddiest assault course, abseiling (in the state we call it rappelling), horseback riding, gadget racing… the list goes on and on. Now, not everything there is suitable for kids. I would not recommend letting anyone under 15 scale down a wall with only a rope between themselves and disaster, but having done so myself at fourteen I am not really in a position to tell anyone how to behave.

I haven’t gotten through reading all about what Clyne Farm has to offer but as far as I’m concerned, from their customer testimonials photographs and proffered activities they are a top notch british attraction.

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Travel to Dublin

June 8, 2008

With its rich heritage, attractive architecture and famously good atmosphere, Dublin never fails to disappoint. One of Europe’s top tourist destinations, it is bustling with a wealth of activities. Catering to varied tastes and budgets, Dublin also offers its visitors the chance to see breathtaking countryside a stone’s throw from the city.

Renowned for inspiring some of the world’s most feted wordsmiths, no trip to Dublin would be complete without a little celebration of James Joyce and George Bernard Shaw. The Dublin Writers Museum should be the first port of call for anyone wishing to explore Ireland’s literary heritage, as it brings 300 years of history to life. The James Joyce Museum and the simple Victorian home commemorating the birthplace of Shaw are also must-sees.

But the best thing about Dublin are the people. Ireland was recently voted as one of the top 20 places to live, rated on such factors as gender equality and sense of community among many others. You can expect friendly faces and warm conversation at any of the local pubs, and neighborly good will just walking down the street.

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Day Trip From Freiburg

June 5, 2008

Along the southern edge of the western Black Forest, Stuttgart and the surrounding area lend themselves to day trips and meandering excursions. Taking a road trip from Freiburg to Stuttgart could take as little as two hours, but that would be missing the point of slow travel. Slow travel caters to both of the explorer’s true desires; to know one place in detail, and to never stop moving. To meet those seemingly contradictory impulses one can turn a Sunday drive into a Sunday–and–night drive.

Leaving Freiburg and heading north along the river valleys affords amazing views that will have your shutter finger itching. Trace the river valleys from the road and let yourself pull over whenever you wish. It may not be a bad idea to bring a picnic basket. Other sights worth checking out are the Uhrenmuseum (clock museum) and the world’s biggest cuckoo clock. The actual cuckoo is over one meter long. Perhaps the reason the black forest inhabitants became so proficient at creating ornate time pieces is so they can remind themselves of the passage of time, Time that seems at a standstill in a place where the serene spirits of long gone trees can yet be felt, towering tall.

Despite the classic style and medieval sentiment of much of the black forest, Stuttgart is a cosmopolitan city in every sense. Of course, there aren’t many modern cities around with castles from the year 950, but that’s what makes it Germany. Stop at the Triberger Wasserfälle–the highest waterfalls in Germany–before making your way into town and enjoying a haute cuisine dinner in the fourth largest city in Germany.

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Gelnhausen - Germany’s dark secret

June 3, 2008

This charming little village nurses a dark secret upon its quaint half-timber breast. The historic and picturesque old town’s cobble stone streets seem to echo with the clop of long gone horse shoes, or it could be the sighs of women being escorted off the mortal coil.

While some towns strive to hide their dirty laundry, Gelnhausen will not let itself forget. The Hexenturm, a tower used to imprison suspected witches during a 16th century, still stands dark and foreboding–and full of the implements of inspired confession. Many adjectives can be used to describe the collection but I will use just one: impressive. Impressive in scope and magnitude, impressive how inventive people have been in creating instruments intended to separate their fellows from their inhibitions or very sanity. Just as impressive are the results of the torture. Dozens of suspected witches were mutilated, burned and drowned in the slow and lazy Kinzig River.

If you don’t mind having the tour in German, you can get a tour on Sunday afternoons from May to October. You can also arrange a tour in English for 60 Euros if you have a group of 30 or more. Sweet dreams.

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Franconia–Unique Within Bavaria

June 2, 2008

Every city in Franconia is a bit of a curiosity. Originally a duchy of the Holy Roman Empire and now officially part of Bavaria, and the area immediately west, Franconia holds on to its own traditions. One of the best preserved Franconian cities is Würzburg. Established as a bishopic, Würzburg’s fortress was built above the city and across water to seclude itself from the populace and inspire authority. This location gave it the perfect vantage from which to observe the unfolding epoch.

Würzburg has seen plenty of violence come and go but much of the old city remains, shielded from the troubles by the river. Several very impressive artifacts remain. The Würzburg cathedral is not to be missed. An affair of rolling rooftops, ornate windows and spire-topped towers, the cathedral will never fail to impress. Take in the view from the Old Main Bridge and you can feel immersed in antiquity.

Dozens of noteworthy and famous artists have emerged from Würzburg to take the wow the world stage. With such inspiring scenery, turbulent history and dramatic architecture it’s no real wonder that Würzburg has been home to creative souls. Several festivals take place year round and, coupled with the host of interesting museums and gallery collections, these make Würzburg an excellent town to visit or stay in in any weather.

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Fairy Tale Road–Germany

June 1, 2008

I know what you’re thinking. In your head you’re saying, “Fairy tale road. Right. It’s a theme park or a marketing ploy.” You couldn’t be farther off. I don’t know if the Märchenstrasse is called that because of how its landscape inspired the Brothers Grimm to such stories as The Pied Piper or Rumpelstilstkin but I do know that the stunning beauty of the misty valleys, forgotten villages and proud castles, while dreamy, will not allow you to become a sleeping beauty.

The Fairy Tale Road begins in the town of Hanau and winds north around 300 miles. Guidebooks will tell you that the route is best explored by car. Depending on how much time you have to dedicate to this worthwhile trek, and your energy level, I would say you ought to consider making it a long hike. The Märchenstrasse is a part of German folk consciousness. The rivers and old world settings are, in my opinion, only disturbed by the clamor of an automobile, even the purr of a German engine.

Not to miss along the Fairy Tale Road are the Towns of Marburg and Bremen. Marburg’s challenging hillsides are lined by staircase streets reminiscent of San Francisco if the city by the bay had been hobbled together by wood gnomes and populated by university students. Oh, did I mention Sleeping Beauty? Sababurg castle is the inspiration for that beloved tale, surrounded by thick wood.





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This Castle is Your Home–Firenzuola

April 23, 2008

Castello La Rocca is the name of what might be the finest villa in Firenzuola, maybe in all of Tuscany. They say that a man’s home is his castle, but this vacation home really is. Once an actual castle, the villa has gone under recent renovations with no expense spared to bring it back to, and past, its former glory. Spiral stairs, an antique walled garden and olive grove–staying in Castello La Rocca will have you feeling like royalty.

Further contributing to the medieval feeling are the remains of the medieval fortifications which are impressive even in their disrepair. What remains of those fortifications illustrates how Firenzuola was erected to protect Florence back in more contentious times. A bit more of a peaceful reminder are the Saint John the Baptist Parish and the Museum of The Serene Stone, a tribute to the quarry economy of the medieval town.

Firenzuola is known for its well earned resort status and rich history, but there are many lesser known events and celebrations, like the “Show of Craftsmanship” which is held every July in the artistic center of the town to promote the local arts and artisans of Firenzuola

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